Getting Clean

One of the (many) things I’ve lusted over during the years is to have a decent parts washer in the shop. Over the years I have made a couple of my own including making one out of an old wringer washing machine, but for various reasons they didn’t last very long, and so I have continued ‘wash-less’ so to speak. Recently I have had the benefit of being able to use a friend’s parts washer, and this experience rekindled my interest in having something of my own – as luck would have it Princess Auto recently had them on sale ! This sale happily coincided with SWMBO’d being out of town at a quilter’s gathering and so with no checks and balances in place to divert me, I soon had my very own, brand spanking new 20 gallon parts washer proudly set up in the shop.

It was one of those Dilbert moments as I did my victory dance after filling it up with solvent, but which then rapidly turned into despair as the pump didn’t. Pump that is. Oh, it did hum slightly, and there was a tantalising dribble of solvent from the nozzle -  but the over all effect was under whelming in the extreme.

As with most males I had glanced at the user manual, but I confess that I hadn’t really read every line – OK, to be completely honest I had actually read the cover and little else. However, on closer inspection of the several pages of English and French language supplied text I discovered some quite important information that both I and the nice young pimply faced kid (NYPFK) at Princess Auto who had pointed at various things as I had asked questions, had obviously over looked. The solvent that the NYPFK had flagged was a light distillate sometimes called ‘Varsol’ which is used as paint thinners for oil based paints, and has also been used in parts washers since time immemorial.  All the people I knew locally with parts washers used this same solvent, and some of them had purchased Princess Auto parts washers previously, so I was just a little bit puzzled as to why the pump had failed.

As I re-read (or perhaps more accurately ‘read’) the instructions much more closely, I finally found ONE line (well, two actually as of course it was also there in French – this is Canada so we get a set of instructions for everything in both official languages) that very casually mentioned the need to use a water based cleaner ! This was confirmed when I disassembled the pump and discovered that it had (in very small print) a notice to the effect that it was a water fountain pump (!!) requiring a GFI electrical connection. A water fountain pump ? The heart of my shiny new parts washer was a water fountain pump ? There is no macho in water fountains – I was crushed. I was also a tad miffed as other than that one mention in the instructions (kindly and usefully repeated also in French), the rest of the verbiage talks about making sure you use a solvent not have a flash point lower than 100 F, that you don’t smoke, be sure to use in a well ventilated area, not to mess with the fusible link that drops the lid in case of fire, etc. At first glance this all seems inconsistent with the use of water as a cleaning material, but on further reflection of course I realised that like everything else for sale these days, it was made in China and I’ve seen their water so possibly it isn’t too strange after all ………….but I digress.

So I called the friendly Princess Auto people and explained that I had sinned and not carefully read the instructions, but that in my own defence one of their folks had pointed me at the ‘real’ solvent when I bought the parts washer rather than the fake stuff that doesn’t really work very well. They were more than kind and offered to refund me the cost of the solvent and replace the seized up pump which is why I like dealing with them – their tag line is ‘no sale final till you are satisfied’ and they do seem to mean it ! Before taking them up on their offer however I did a bit of research on the internet to see where I could buy a parts washer that would work with ‘real’ solvent and discovered an interesting thing – for supposed environmental reasons, water based parts washers seem to be becoming the standard which is really quite odd. Commercial shops have companies that handle the spent fluids, but I’d guess that 99% of the small parts washers like the one I bought are sold to people just like me who do not have access to commercial products or services. What water based cleaners we do have access to are not recyclable at all, so I suspect many people just dump it down the sewer ! Paint thinners or Varsol on the other hand are completely recyclable and there are all sorts of places you can take it to for safe disposal. The other point of course, is I live in Canada and as I look outside at the deep blanket of snow on the roadways here in Calgary (they talk about ploughing the roads here, but in our area this doesn’t happen) the obvious inference is that it must get cold during the winters so if you do not heat your shop when it is not in use, your shiny new water based parts washer will be history ! Clearly any sensible person would want ‘real’ solvent. Quite strange. 

Luckily Princess Auto sells several different parts washers and also stocks parts for them, and so have two different pumps on offer. The water fountain version, and also a fully encapsulated, epoxy filled one which closely resembles the 518020 model made by Little Giant Pump in the USA. The Princess Auto part 4216107 seen to the right, had the outlet pointing the wrong way, but I took a chance and accepted it as a free replacement for the one I had on the assumption that I could make it fit. Luckily, it was quite easy to alter and with the help of a few fittings that I picked up a local plumbing place I soon had it up and running – and pumping real solvent !

I did my Dilbert victory dance a second time and am now on to other things – using freshly cleaned parts !

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1977 GT500 – Engine Issues

So the time had come to take a closer look at the two GT500 engines I had  – one is a 1976 and the other a late 1977. I scraped the worst of the accumulated grime from them but did not bother to do a real cleaning as the plan is to do a full strip and then clean and rebuild.

The first issue was the clutch side cover on the 1976 engine didn’t want to come off – and it took me a few minutes to realise that the reason for this was the shifter arm had been welded to the shifter shaft !!! I have to admit, I hadn’t seen that particular bodge before, and it didn’t bode well for the condition of the rest of the engine.

After a few minutes of grinding, that was sorted and it was time to pull the heads off and take a look at how bad the barrels and pistons were. Thankfully, the 1976 engine actually seemed to be in pretty good shape – the barrels were still on there original bore and there were no obvious signs of oil starvation, the crankshaft felt good and there were no signs of excessive play in the con-rods and small and big ends. There were signs that the chain had come off at some point as there was obvious damage to the lower engine case, but that was possibly repairable if I had to. The 1977 engine was a different story.

When I pulled the heads on the 1977 engine. I was quite surprised to find that one barrel was at second over, and the other was still on standard bore ! As well, there were obvious signs of fairly serious engine damage in the past as the left cylinder head had a deep gouge in it – and then most surprising of all, it appears the right cylinder head  is actually cracked the width of the cylinder right through the spark plug hole so both of them are pretty much scrap. The barrels also have been played with – the intakes have both been opened up, probably to try and make the engine breathe a bit better, and the liner on the cylinder that has been bored to second over is cracked in the area of the intake transfer ports. The crankshaft seems OK as well as the con-rods and the small and big ends, but the engine must have been really unbalanced with having the cylinders unmatched and probably buzzed like crazy at speed. We’ll see if the crank is damaged once I get it out completely next week.

The good news out of this at least is that I do have one set of barrels and heads which do seem OK, and I also have four con-rods which seem to be in good shape which is very nice as these specific ones have not been available anywhere for years now.  The crankshaft bearings likewise pretty much are not available – you can have them made at considerable cost – so it was very nice to find that, at first glance at least, the original bearings may be salvageable.

I’m hopeful the transmissions will be in better shape, but of course we will know soon enough !

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GT500 – Back To The Shop !

Well, it has been a while since I did any updates, or indeed spent any real time on the project bikes – it has been a busy fall season and winter has truly settled in around the Calgary area.

The 1973 GT750 is all done except for a shake down ride – I posted a few photos of the finished project here, and it is now all buttoned up for the winter months in storage. The plan is to ride it a bit, make sure everything works and then probably sell it as I am at the point where I have too many projects and not enough space to put them ! Its a nice problem to have.

Reproduction Decals still haven’t got back to me about a couple of items – a bit disappointing but normally they are very good so I will give them the benefit of the doubt and give them a call to see where things are at. I’m still looking for some warning stickers, had a question about the pin location on the tank badges they sell and also am looking for some options for renewing the Gear Position plate on the 1974 and later gauge clusters. I’m sure they are working on it …..

In the meantime I have had the rubber boots  that cover the temperature  sensors for the fan and temperature gauge copied by Greg Clauss in California. While wire harnesses are easy to repair, the boots which are quite specific to the GT750 till now were not available any where. Greg did a nice job on them, and if anyone else wants some just contact him directly.

So, back to the 1977 GT500. For the one or two people globally that may be following along, you will recall that I picked up a couple of very tired old soldiers in Vernon BC and got them home in June of 2009. Since then, I’ve powder coated the frame of the one that seemed worth saving and have been collecting parts and pieces in the background while working on the 1973 GT750.  I also had the battery saver mat copied for it – these are also available from Greg Clauss – and then just recently started to look at the condition of the engines I have available to me.

As always, there were surprises which will be the topic of the next blog  :-(

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Trim – 1973 GT750 Resto

I used Reproduction Decals here in Canada this time for the tank and side cover badges. They sell the same product as Badge Replicas in Australia and so far at least,  I’ve alternated back and forth between them depending on which one the currency exchange favours ( Reproduction Decals, even though a Canadian company sells everything in US dollars, but on the plus side, the prices they quote do include the shipping cost)  At any rate, when I placed the order, the exchange rate slightly favoured buying in US dollars so they got the order.

The quality from both companies is excellent, and the side cover badges were exact so far as size and colour to what would have been original, however it was a bit disappointing to see that the tank badges were about a 1/4 inch narrower than the original ones as per the photo. Evidently this is due to shrinkage of the casting metal, but really I would have thought that the amount of shrinkage would be simple to calculate and allow for in the design of the mould. At any rate, the result is the new badges can’t be made to fit the original mounting holes in the tank and so the advice was to cut one locating pin off of the back of the badge and then just glue the badge on. Not completely ideal, but it does work.


Seat trim was another problem as currently no one sells this as a separate stock item. The Suzuki seat trim for this model goes all the way around the seat, finishing on both sides about 1 1/2 inches from the front seat edge, and is made from polished stainless steel. Folks like Cool Retro Bikes will sell you trim as a package when you have them do your seat for you, but they became quite rude when I asked to buy just the trim by itself. I explored a couple of other options, but in the end I did what I usually do and just looked for a used seat having good trim – if I also ended up with a good seat pan and some foam as well then I considered that to be a bonus.

The seat was recovered by Calgary Seat  Cover who are quite happy to take whatever cover you have and properly put it on your seat pan. While it isn’t a super difficult job to do yourself, I also wanted the foam rebuilt and so for me at least it was just easier to have someone else to the whole thing for me.

It didn’t take long to locate a suitable candidate on eBay and after it had arrived, I just removed the trim, worked out any little nicks or dings in it, and then polished it back up. I mounted it on the seat pan with stainless steel screws, nuts and spacer washers and everything was ready to go !

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Pipe Cleaners and GT750 Mini-Rollout !

With the engine running well, the carburettors (mainly) sorted and the seat recovered, it was time to mount the exhaust system properly on my 1973 Buffalo. I had planned to have the pipes ‘tanked’ at a local radiator shop, and while that is still on the agenda, I elected to just clean them out for now and get them mounted so the bike can be run in properly. After anything that shows up during the initial shakedown is sorted, then perhaps I’ll pull them back off and get them re-chromed next year.

Two stroke exhausts can accumulate a lot of carbon build up, but I admit I was surprised at just how much there was in these. I made a scraper with a hooked end on it out of some flat bar I had (which is visible in the photo), and then went around the inside of the pipe between each baffle till I had quite the pile of accumulated coke and carbon sitting on my work table. And this was only from the two larger pipes ! I also managed to clean out a slightly smaller pile from the two smaller centre pipes !!

Of course now I just have to be careful to not have anything white behind the bike the next time I start it up, as I’ve no doubt that there are all sorts of small oily bits of carbon loose inside the pipes which will expel all over anything behind me – might be fun actually …..

Suzuki used to sell a special sealing compound for the connector tubes between the three main exhaust pipes – of course this is no longer available. I used high temperature RTV orange silicon on the GT550 rebuild which seemed to work well, and so did the same thing with the 1973 GT750. Everything bolted up nicely and so it was time to roll it out and take a couple of photos.

I still need to put the warning labels and decals on, add the seat trim, and I do not doubt that I will have to play with the carburettors a bit more, but it is quite close to being completed now.

Of course I’m biased, but I think its looking pretty good !

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Blue Haze in the Morning !

Over the past several days, Calgary has been blanketed by smoke from forest fires burning in British Columbia. The haze in the air from all this smoke has been quite dense, limiting visibility to just a few kilometres at times – but that isn’t actually what I’m writing about today. The blue haze in our small area of town was from the successful start-up of my rebuilt 1973 GT750 !

Needless to say, I was pretty pleased about the whole thing, and while it showed up a few niggling issues still to be sorted out, for the most part it was a complete success. Best of all I suppose, was that it started on the first push of the starter-motor button and when I double checked the ignition timing on all three sets of points, they were spot on. After some minor carburettor adjustment, the engine sounded strong and was idling smoothly.

I will have to take apart and try again to fix the fuel petcock, as I still do not have a good shut-off on the vacuum operated valve assembly, but that is minor. New ones are still available if all else fails, so it is currently more of an annoyance at this stage and will not slow down further testing and engine run-in, although it will need to be working properly before I try to have the bike certified for the road.

Next on the agenda is the finish off the front brakes, tidy up the the control cable routing, finish the seat and attend to a small oil leak on the right side. The right side engine cover was not in great shape on the gasket surface, but it was the original one so I really wanted to reuse it. While I had lapped the faces as best I could, there were still a couple of damaged spots that it now appears the gasket could not properly seal. I will probably just use a small a bit of JB Weld to fill in these nicks on the joint faces and that should do the trick.

The seat will be visiting Calgary Seat Cover on Monday. I have a reproduction seat cover, and I was going to re-cover the seat myself as it isn’t really a difficult job. However when I did a dry fit, I found that with age, the seat foam had shrunk and hardened enough that the shape was not correct, plus of course it would not be very comfortable to sit on ! The folks at Calgary Seat Cover will re-skin the seat with a thin layer of fresh, high density foam to restore the original shape, and also install the cover for a very reasonable price so it makes good sense to just let them do it for me. I will install the stainless steel seat trim myself and it should be good to go !

Next stop (sorry for the pun) are the brakes !

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A Field Guide for the Suzuki GT750

For a while now I had been toying with the idea of putting together an overview of what bits and pieces should be attached to a Buffalo manufactured in a given year. I saw this as possibly being helpful, as some of these bikes are approaching 40 years of age, and memories of what came with them originally do fade over time.

Over the years as things break and are replaced,  and as these bikes pass through multiple owners, you can quite innocently end up with quite a hodge-podge of parts and bits from different years on one vehicle. Suzuki doesn’t help matters some times, as they up-rev parts numbers to only supply bits from a later model bike as a substitute part, having similar function but often not the same look at all.

Having something that describes what the baseline condition is supposed to be can be useful in many ways. As a specific example, you quite often see bikes advertised as being ‘all original’ and the owners ask for a premium for the privilege – in this case it would be handy to have a check list with a few photos of what the thing is actually supposed to look like, just to be sure. Such a check-list would also possibly be a useful tool to assist folks in identifying parts and pieces on places like eBay. You regularly see parts and bits on eBay and elsewhere incorrectly identified as to the year of bike they are supposed to fit – some of the sellers frankly do not have a clue, which can be great if you as a buyer happen to spot a great deal – but also bad if you also don’t know what the part is supposed to look like and you are relying on the seller to know what they are talking about. A check list with some pictures could be a very handy thing.

After mulling this idea over for quite some time, I finally decided to get off the chair and try to pull together such a guide,  and the first version (it will be a work in progress for quite a while I suspect) of it is available on-line for viewing now.  I would be the first person to admit, if you are not really ‘into’ these bikes it would make great bed time reading as it will bore most people to tears very quickly – the plot is thin and the character development is non-existent ! That’s OK – it’s a reference book, not a novel.

I’ve called it “A Field Guide to the Suzuki GT750 Le Mans” and it is sub-titled “What’s In Your Buffalo ?”, and I’m  not selling it, it is free. It’s offered under a ‘Creative Commons‘ copy write agreement which allows folks to freely share it, copy it and transmit it, so long as they attribute the work and not try to pass it off as their own. In addition, while folks are free to share it etc., they are not free to sell it – this is a non-commercial work. And just to be completely clear – in the document several folks have contributed material – they retain the ownership to their material and it is not mine.

So if I’m not selling it – then why did I write it ? The short answer is that a lot of folks have freely given me help, advice, and even parts etc. , and have not asked for compensation – they were just willing to share what they knew within the global community of like-minded GT750 owners, modifiers (because after all, not everyone wants a stock bike) and restorers. Likewise I am now doing the same and trying to give a bit back to the community.

Hopefully one or two folks will find it useful ! If you want to take a look – just ‘click’ on the picture.

cover

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Getting into rubber !

One of the (many) problems you run into with trying to restore older equipment is sourcing the soft rubber and plastic components. While some items such as plastic panels and trim can be repaired, if they are too sun bleached/perished or hazed, the rubber or plastic material is really beyond repair so replacement is the only option. Some parts are being re-issued by the manufacturers in their original form – good examples are the water pump driven gears (17522-31031) which Suzuki has re-released a few times, as well as the frame side covers (47101-31810 and 47201-31811)  for the 1972/1973 GT750′s.  Unfortunately, quite often the part offered as a replacement does not match the original  – an example would be the oil pump rod boot on the GT750 which originally had a pleated sleeve (16765-31200) and which now is only available as a plain seal (16765-31201). As well, some parts have not been offered for so long that even trying to find a good used example is almost impossible, never mind trying to find a NOS (new old stock) item as the supply was sold out long ago.

Another problem you run into, is that in many cases, the part you need was never offered as a separate component to begin with together with its own part number, so locating a NOS part to copy is not even an option. The rubber hoods that cover the water temperature sensors for the cooling fan and water temperature gauge that came with the wire harness for the GT750 for instance. While it is quite easy now to restore the wire harness as the components for the wiring are readily available from several sources including  Vintage Connections, the rubber hoods are unique, do not have a part number and were never available as a separate item. This means to get a good one requires you to scavenge salvageable hoods from other old harnesses.

So – replica parts are increasingly a necessity. The availability of replica parts tends to be model specific – early CL/CB Honda or Z1 and H2 Kawasaki parts for example are readily available. In contrast good quality late 1960′s and early 1970′s Suzuki replica parts and services actually are only really starting to come into the market, but I expect these will increase in number rapidly over the next decade. With that in mind I have started to try to help the process along by collecting a few specific good NOS or used parts and have started to arrange to have them copied and made available for sale – but not by me. While this may change in the future, currently I’m just interested in increasing the supplier list for folks who, like me, just want to keep these old girls running and looking original so other than satisfaction, I’m not making a penny on these.

For my 1977 GT500 rebuild, one item I’d been trying to track down for some time was an original style battery protector (33651-15000). While it would have been easy to piece something together that would do the same job, it would not have looked the same. This specific part has not been available from Suzuki for many years, and the NOS stock seems to have disappeared long ago also. The part was used on the T/GT500 series of twin cylinder oil burners between 1968 and 1977, and the Cobra and Titan models were, and still are, quite popular both as collectable bikes as well as for use on the vintage racing circuit.

After much searching, I was finally able to locate a used item in very good condition which could serve as a pattern, and then I hooked up with Gregg Clauss  the owner of Clauss Studios in California.  Gregg has been providing reasonably priced, small volume ‘unobtainium’ reproduction plastic and rubber parts for  Lambretta, Vespa, Honda and Kawasaki plus many other makes for several years now, and is well-known on the US west coast in the vintage motorcycle world. As of last week, Gregg can now add Suzuki to his list of parts offerings !

In the photo to the right, you can see the original battery protector on the bottom, and Gregg’s copy is above it – I’m really pleased with how well it turned out. These replica battery protectors are now available directly from Clauss Studios so just drop him an email to get pricing and delivery info.

If you own a Suzuki Cobra, Titan or GT500 and care about its originality, I suspect you probably really need one !

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1973 GT750 Rebuild – Wheels and Tires

The front wheel I wanted to use on the 1973 GT750 project had good chrome, but a big flat spot on one side of it, so I was faced with either living with it or changing it out. I hadn’t done a spoked wheel rebuild before, but based on comments from other folks on the Sundial board, it didn’t seem that hard if you took your time so I decided to give it a try. I had picked up a wheel stand from Harbor Freight on one of trips into Montana more to be used for balancing, but of course also perfectly suited for wheel building. It turned out to be not hard at all – I had a spare rim that was in good shape that I’d been saving for some time, and I picked up a set of the correct spokes from GW Cycle World here in Calgary. They had 1 1/2 sets, and offered me a deal to take the lot pretty much at Thailand prices so it was an easy decision.

Lace True

Obviously I needed tires as well, but I wanted something that resembled what came with the bike originally both in tread pattern and profile. That meant trying to locate ‘inch’ measure tires, rather than metric, but pretty well all you can buy these days is metric measure tires. After some internet searching and discussion with a couple of the folks here in Calgary who also wanted ‘original look’ tires for their older Suzuki’s,  I imported six sets (so a dozen tires in total) of IRC GS-11 AW front and rear tires from Dennis Kirk in the USA. These are inch size and so are the correct profile, and also very close to original in the tread appearance. The landed cost after duty and taxes was $78.47 per tire which I thought was quite reasonable.  The only down side is that now I’m on the Dennis Kirk junk email list, but I suppose I can live with that.

My ‘partners’ were pleased to get their ‘old style’ tires, but they also had access to a proper motorcycle tire changer – I didn’t and so used the plastic bag trick to put mine on. It worked quite well – recommended !

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1973 GT750 Rebuild – Carburettors

Next on the list for the 1973 GT750 project, was to get a set of usable carburettors. I had bits for five and a half carb’s, but they are ‘handed’ in the sense that the left side carb has a Carbsdifferent throttle slide than do the middle and right ones, plus of course the middle carb is jetted differently from the outside two. Right off the bat, I had a problem as when I looked at what I had carefully, I found that a couple of the bodies were damaged or had been modified – for example the throttle slide stop screw on one had evidently been lost at some point, and replaced with a Robertson headed machine screw !

Each carburettor body is stamped on the engine block side with a (very) small  L,M or R  to show where they go. Of the six bodies I had, four were usable and luckily the one of them was a ‘left’, two were right and one was a middle. So far, so good.

When I checked the spring lengths I found they were a mishmash of lengths – I suspect it likely that the shorter ones came from 1972J GT750′s as the 1973K had a different, taller, cap than did the J and so also had a shorter spring. At any rate, after carefully checking through all the bits and pieces I felt lucky to have enough bits to build three carb’s .

I had picked up an ultrasonic cleaner from Harbor Freight on our last trip into Montana – this particular unit was large enough that I could fully immerse a carburettor and it did a really nice job. I used a small amount of malt vinegar with some Simple Green and water. After a couple of heated four minute cycles, the carburettors came out spotless. After a rinse in clean water, and a blow out with some carburettor cleaner of the smaller passageways and then an air hose, I was good to go.

I used a carburettor repair kit from Japan – really all I wanted was the gaskets and it was the cheapest way to get them – I re-used the jets and the needle as there were no signs of wear at all on the ones I kept. I suppose we will find out soon enough if that was a smart idea or not !

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